What is an actual Nile cruise like? Let’s take a closer look, as we have sent our marketing manager, Robert, to Egypt, to do a Nile cruise on board one of our most popular boats, the excellent MS Royal Viking and report back to us directly with the results.
So, here we are… what is it actually like going on one of our Nile cruises here at Egypt Escapes. Let’s take a deep dive into it and find out first hand! Nile cruises are a BIG part of what we do here at Egypt Escapes and our customers love them but tend to have a lot of questions about them. Take a trip with us as we try to answer those ‘know before you go’ secrets to a Nile cruise holiday.
Going to Gatwick: We caught the train to Gatwick the night prior to our Nile cruise trip, staying at the Premier Inn for the night before our 5-hour flight to Luxor with our friends at EasyJet the next morning scheduled for just after 0900hrs.
Day One: Waking up at the hotel, we realised it was indeed ‘Blue Monday’ apparently the most depressing day of the year! Well, what a day to go away then! The flight to Luxor was fine and our friends at EasyJet looked after us well. I did what any good Nile cruiser should do and prepped for the week ahead by watching ‘Death on the Nile’ (the original!).
Arriving at Luxor and going through passport control, we usually advise all of our customers to do the entry visa on arrival and have never had any problems doing this ourselves this way previously. Although this time there was a queue, a very slow moving queue and it took about 20 minutes to get to the front and pay for our visas (by card £21 each). this is also the area in which we met our Sun International reps who took care of us, helped us with our bags and showed us to the transfer bus. This was just after we made a quick stop at one of the ATMs in the airport to withdraw some Egyptian cash (about £40) to get us started.
Half-hour later we arrive at the Viking Cruise Dock to meet the wonderful MS Royal Viking Nile Cruise that was going to be our home for the next 7-nights. A beautiful, regal boat that is very well-appointed and brimming with bubbly staff that are only too happy to do anything for you. We were shown to our lovely cabin on the top deck. We unpacked and then made our way to dinner and watched football in the bar.
Day Two: Breakfast (ample, international) is served 0630-0730hrs in the main restaurant and we tucked in to a fresh croissant with jams and honey, as well as some cake (!). This was prior to a 0730hrs meet in reception with our excellent guide, Zakaria, for the first of our amazing excursions. We visited ‘Valley of the Kings’ an Alabaster Factory, Queen Hatsepshut Temple and the Colossi of Memnon before getting back to the boat just after 1 for a lunch at 1330hrs in the main restaurant.
The excursions are obviously amazing. Valley of the Kings is a real highlight. It is busy there but not too crowded and with a little patience you could usually wait for the right moment to take an uninterrupted photo of what you wanted. Not as much walking required as you might imagine too, as golf buggies are on hand to help you about. What’s great is that you can imagine yourself coming back time and time again to see different tombs as they change the ones on offer between restoration programmes.
The Alabaster Factory is informative and funny and what they produce there is stunning. Although it is essentially a shop and they want you to buy things, there is no pressure sales and you are only asked if you show interest and it is always polite.
Sitting at lunch, we realised that our places in the restaurant were allocated according to groups and we were going to be in these same seats with the same people for breakfast, lunch and dinner for the whole trip. Which was great as we had an amazing group! An eclectic mix of all ages of couples, singles, father and son, father and daughters, friends and families. We were blessed to be in the company of such a wonderful myriad of holidaymakers. Also on the boat, other groups consisted of Spanish, French, Asian and more, all there to experience the wonderful sights of Egypt.
Just after 1400hrs we set sail from Luxor dock, along with all the other boats and raced towards Esna. The afternoon was at leisure, with a few cool drops of light rain somehow falling from tiny clouds at the start of the cruise. We enjoyed afternoon tea on the sundeck at 1630hrs for coffee and cakes while watching the sun slowly set.
1930hrs is dinner, which is a wide selection of themed varieties every evening, with something for everyone. Meats, fish, vegetable dishes, show cooking, salads, soups, cakes, biscuits… it is all up there, help yourself to as much as you want. The only thing you have to pay for is the drinks, which is waiter service and very cheap, about £2.50 for a local beer and £3 for Heineken.
2100hrs is music in the evening lounge bar, with entertainment starting at approx 2130hrs and consisted of a rather simple but very nice introduction to lots of the staff onboard. From the boat manager, to head chef, chief chamber maid, they all come dancing out to introduce themselves and you feel as if you can approach them for anything, as friends for the next week.
Day Three: 0730hrs breakfast start for an 0830hrs meet in to go to Edfu Temple which is about a 15 minute drive from the dock. Edfu itself is a busy town and seemed quite poor in comparison to Luxor. Lots of horse and carts traversing the roadways touting for taxiing which we were warned against and weren’t interested in anyway.
Edfu Temple is quite incredible and we really enjoyed our time at leisure to explore it here.
Back on the boat in time for a 1030hrs sailing departure to Kom Ombo. This town too was busy and poor, like Edfu, although much smaller. What was really cool about this excursion is that the temple is within walking distance of the dock and you can see it beautifully against its own backdrop as you approach via the Nile. Unusual too, as it is an evening excursion which was a totally amazing experience in the sunset.
After the temple we also visited the crocodile museum there and spent some nice relaxing time in the cafe right next to the temple and dock as the night fell. We were then back on the boat once more after Kom Ombo, to sail to our southernmost stop, Aswan.
1800hrs the boat departed KomOmbo and 1930hrs we enjoyed dinner while sailing serenely through the calm Nile waters. The dinners onboard the MS Royal Viking are varied and most evenings followed a theme. For example we had Oriental evening, which included sushi and lots of fish dishes.
At 2100hrs we met in the lounge bar for the evening entertainment which was drinks with a ‘treasure hunt’ and a lot of fun that gets lots of people together. Although it says 2100hrs, the timing in the evenings was ‘flexi’ and usually started anywhere from 20-30 minutes later. This was in stark contrast to the daytime when everything was run like clockwork!
Sailing on the Nile is an experience in itself. While you do get hassled by the locals off of the boat in all locations, this was probably worst for us in Kom Ombo, whereby a couple of local kids just wouldn’t leave us alone for the whole walk back to the boat. Although good natured, it is a different experience that we weren’t used to and found it rather annoying and feeling guilty. It also left us conflicted over what to do for the best. Whether we should give them money or rather rudely ignore them. We don’t have lots of money and don’t sit comfortably with the superiority complex of ‘giving to the poor.’ In the end we kind of found a middle ground that we were comfortable with, whereby we didn’t part with cash, but were happy to provide fruit, pens, tennis balls, toys and sweets where we could to those that wanted it. The kids seemed to enjoy that too and it provided some enjoyable exchanges with the locals. Even if what you gave them was never enough!
The bustling life on the banks is contrasted by the serenity of life on the top deck of the boat, watching life go by on the land. It seems so peaceful as we drift through green pastures and farmlands, dotted with waving locals, fishermen, livestock and palm trees.
Day Four: Breakfast at 0630hrs for a 0730hrs meet to go to Philae Temple in Aswan, which is one of the temples that the Egyptians had to painstakingly move due to flooding after the installation of the Aswan High Dam. Walking through Aswan, we were surprised at how big it is. A city with over 1.2 million inhabitants, that stretches quite a distance you realise when you board the small motorboat that takes you to the beautiful Philae. Also, when you are driving to the dam itself. The area seems quite affluent too after Edfu and Kom Ombo, with less hassle and a calmer environment. The energy of the people seems more eclectic too, as the cosmopolitan diversity brings itself to the fore with much more people wearing jeans and t-shirts rather than the majority being in jellabiya.
After Philae we enjoyed a visit to the Aswan High Dam as well as the older 1905 dam, interspersed with visits to an Egyptian cotton shop and an Egyptian natural perfume shop. We were back on the boat for 1 for lunch with the afternoon at leisure in the hot afternoon sun, before an exciting trip into Aswan to sample some nightlife at a sugar cane drink cafe and a spice shop.
All the shops you visit are complemented with a professional display from the staff, proudly demonstrating their wares. Although you could end up spending a fortune, it is quite fascinating and very educational as well as being a great way to experience the local cultures.
Day Five: Ok, so this was the big day that I was split between looking forward to and kind of dreading… as we were doing the Abu Simbel trip! This involved a 5am meet in reception for a 3.5hr coach ride running along Lake Nasser and travelling all the way down to the Sudanese border. On the way there, the stunning sunrise in the desert is plenty to keep you entertained for the first part of the journey, before you stop for about 20 minutes and finish the journey to the amazing Abu Simbel. The Royal Viking kindly prepare you with breakfast bags too that consist of fruit, croissants, sandwiches, drinks and snack bars. Most of the coach, that are by now all good friends, excitedly chat on the way there too which passes the time quite nicely.
Awesome Abu Simbel is another monument that the Egyptians (along with a helping hand from the British) had to patiently move, piece by piece, to a new higher ground to avoid the flooding in Lake Nasser’s new grounds. A main temple built by Ramses and dedicated to Ramses, with a smaller temple built by Ramses and dedicated to Ramses’ wife.
Even though it is a long and rather arduous journey, the end result is well worth it… just about. You get just over 2 hours to appreciate the stunning temples of Abu Simbel, which is just about long enough. although you could do with double that really. The main temple could justify that on its own. Even the smaller temple could demand most of that time. Then you could do with a chill in one of the cafes before embarking back on the hard journey returning to dock. It seemed to take a lot longer on the way back. Maybe next time we will try to do the Abu Simbel by air option, which added about £100pp to the cost, but could be worth it!
Back at the boat for 1415hrs for a late lunch before an afternoon at leisure which for us consisted of sitting around the pool and sinking a couple of well earned Egyptian beers.
Our wonderful guide, Zak, then offered us an optional guided trip into Aswan markets again to have a look around and enjoy a cafe for a few hours. This was a great way to pass a bit of time and enjoy a real piece of Egypt.
The bustling market of Aswan is beautiful and exciting. You could get lost in there for hours. The patrons are an eclectic mix and you feel like you could fit in quite well here. There is not much hassle from the vendors either. Here, you are free to look around and enjoy.
Day Six: After the exploits of Abu Simbel it was quite nice to enjoy a lie in today! We had a 9am meet for the optional tour to the Nubian Village. I was looking forward to this one as I had heard a lot of good things about it from customers in the past.
The 30 minute small motorboat journey to the village was exceptional. Drifting along the Nile between all the cataracts and enjoying the sites of the bank, including the Old Cataract Hotel from Death on the Nile!
The Nubian Village and people are very different to the Egyptians, in look, traditions, history and geography. Although very closely interlinked in all of these, they have failed to assimilate and are independently distinguished. Intrinsically intertwined, yet starkly and solidarity selectively different.
We enjoyed our time at the Nubian Village (except for the poor caged up crocodiles). The croissant like soft, hot bread and fermented cheese was a particular highlight. As well as the Nubian kids on surfboards that swim out to your motorboat and attach themselves to sing songs to you in hope of a dollar or two (we gave them fruit).
On the way back, approx noon, as we had spare time, Zak offered us the chance to go into Aswan and visit the huge Christian church there, next to the Aswan mosque and then go to see the Unfinished Obelisk. This was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Maybe because it was an unexpected and rather unassuming trip, but you could really get a sense of the workings of the ancient Egyptians here, as you walked around the granite quarry. The unfinished obelisk itself is impressive. Almost ready to be cut from the ground and transported up to Luxor, apart from the fatal crack that had appeared across it, rendering it useless, so left in the ground, incomplete and unfinished, for eternity. You could get a sense of work in progress here, as you splayed through the granite passages, spotting half chiselled sphinxes and such. It was as if the ancient Egyptian workers had just downed their tools on Friday and would be back on Monday to continue.
1400hrs we were back on the boat for lunch and an afternoon sailing back to Kom Ombo, then, in the evening, to Edfu. We were over half way and, rather sadly, we were heading home…
During the sailing we enjoyed another high tea at 1600hrs on the sundeck. Speaking to the staff on the ship, as you sail along the Nile, taking in all the splendour, you get the impression that even though they get to experience these wonderful sights every day, even they are still in awe of it. I mean, while us tourists on the boat are trying to soak it all in and almost can’t get enough of it, when you see that the people that see it every day still enjoy it, you realise that no matter how much you try to soak it up, it will never be enough.
Then, after dinner, in the entertainment bar, we had a very raucous Jellabiya party! that was great fun!
Day Seven:
I woke early this morning for some reason. Without a wake up call. And I made use of it by making my way up to the top deck and watch the sunrise. Dozens of Nile boats were docked in Edfu Port where we had sailed to yesterday evening, some making their way down and some making their way up, the great River Nile. Gently, the suns rays made their way across the river and eventually on to the monuments at Edfu. I wondered how many sunrises they had enjoyed and how this one compared. I had seen so many amazing sites on our Nile cruise by now, that I wondered if I were in danger of becoming complacent and taking it somewhat for granted. We were due to arrive in Luxor by lunchtime for tours of Luxor and Karnak temples. Were we going to be blown away by the sites, like I was by this sunrise, or would we be somewhat blasé about it after seeing so many amazing things already.
We had a well deserved morning at leisure before sailing to Esna. This included getting stuck in a traffic jam as dozens of Nile cruise boats queued to pass through Esna Lock. Taking four boats at a time, in twos, side by side, it is an enjoyable viewing to experience another engineering feat of the River Nile. The Egyptians have harnessed as much as they can from this great river you feel. And you know, as you sail and experience the gentle waters and what it gives and does and has done since time immemorial, the Egypt truly is the gift of the Nile.
Thanks to the big queue at Esna Lock, we were behind schedule. Despite the MS Royal Viking being one of the fastest boats on the Nile and the captain being one of the best drivers, we were still going to be late into Luxor.
We met at 1530hrs in reception (approx 90 minutes behind schedule) for a rather rushed tour or Luxor & Karnak temples. Including the ‘Sound & Light Show’ at Karnak. This was the only time that the itinerary really got out of sync so although rather annoying, not too bad. Also, if you really wanted, Zak offered to bring those that had the time back to the temples early the following morning before disembarking.
The temples at Luxor and Karnak, now linked by the completed 3km long Avenue of Sphinxes really are wondrous and a fine way to end the trip. Certainly no danger of taking anything for granted here!
By 1930hrs we were back at the Viking Cruise Port for our final evening onboard. this included a wonderful evening of entertainment featuring a magic show, traditional dancing and belly dancing.
Day Eight: It was time to leave our lovely Nile cruise and MS Royal Viking for the last time. Not without some final excitement though, as some of our friends participated in the early morning (5am) hot air balloon ride over Luxor and the Valley of the Kings. Looking back now I really wish I had done this. It was the only trip that we did not participate in. By the last day, we were tired and had spent most of our money! The balloon ride was amazing though by account of those of us that did do it (£99pp).
You could also (time permitting) make your way to the Valley of the Queens to squeeze one last drop out of your Nile cruise experience. We sat on the (very) sunny sundeck and soaked up the last of the rays while very sadly saying goodbye to our Sun International excursion group, that were departing onwards to differing new ventures, or, home. Our travelling companions, that had by now become good friends, were catching different flights, going to the Red Sea to relax, staying in Luxor for a night extra (or two, or three!), heading off to Cairo to see the Pyramids, a plethora of options were available.
Numbers were exchanged, group photos were taken, a couple of final stories told and even a few tears shed as we hugged and shook hands goodbye. Thanks for a wonderful time with a wonderful group and we hope to see you all again…x
Conclusion: A Nile cruise is a fab holiday. A trip of a lifetime. A great way to enjoy Egypt, but moreover, an inimitable way to create memories for a lifetime. The experiences you enjoy and the way that you do it, really makes for a tour that you will always remember, for all the right reasons. The time that I spent with my son and the way that we spent it is hugely conducive to create genuine shared and reciprocal interest that motivates conversation points about a whole myriad of aspects. I will always cherish the trip, for reasons that I considered at the start but also that I never envisioned.
Egypt, resplendent in its history, traditions and customs may well be the land that time forgot… and that you will never forget… x
Is MS Royal Viking a Good Nile Cruise? MS Royal Viking is a fine way to traverse the Nile. A 5-star ship with all the trimmings you want. Top notch facilities complemented with fab, friendly staff and of course, good food. It is 5-star in a regal, old-fashioned way, one that is befitting of a Nile cruise and sits well within the whole experience. The pool is small but just enough to cool you down and I will treasure the time I spent relaxing on the top deck, enjoying the fresh breeze blowing up from the cool waters of the Nile as we sail. With everything and nothing to see or do all at once.
What is WiFi Like on a Nile Cruise? Phone signal on a Nile cruise is a difficulty. The WiFi was unsteady at best and although it did stretch to the cabin, it wasn’t great. I’m sure if we needed to we could’ve found better signal on the boat, perhaps at reception area, but we didn’t want to spend too much time worrying about it. In the end we found our data supply from o2 (£6/day) was better and could just about manage a few minutes FaceTime home (WhatsApp video didn’t work at all, although messages were fine) to keep in touch. E-sims are also a good alternative (about £30/week) and you can purchase sim cards in Egypt too although with the relative new advent of e-sim, that seems easier to do now and I would recommend.
Tipping on a Nile Cruise: At the end of the Nile cruise, we discussed among ourselves about tipping. Deciding that we had all thoroughly enjoyed such a fab time and we wanted to show gratitude in a way that Egyptians really appreciate. We got two envelopes from reception and using the ATM that was conveniently right outside the Viking Group Dock, filled each with 4600LE (approx £76). One was for the boat staff and one for our incredible guide, Zak, who did everything for us and more. He really made our trip the exceptional experience that it was. We also left a little tip of 2000LE in our room for the room cleaning who were so lovely.
Full-Board or All-Inclusive on a Nile Cruise? We didn’t think it was necessary to do all-inclusive on the Nile cruise. The prices of the drinks are cheap enough to just do ‘pay as you go’ whereby you sign for a bottle of water or beer etc and then pay your bill at the end. The drinks are about £1 for a bottle of water, £2-3 for beer (local or international) and £3-ish for a cocktail or large liquor. We liked the local beer and liquors just fine. The Egyptian rum is particularly yum, thanks to all the local sugar.
Nile Cruise Drinks Menu:
Is a Nile Cruise Suitable for Singles? The way that the Nile cruise is done I think it is a great way to meet people. After you check-in and sit down at your place for dinner and meet your travelling companions, you have little choice but to get on and have a great time!
Can I Do a Nile Cruise With Walking Difficulties? While not ideal, every effort is made to make a Nile cruise an enjoyable trip for everyone. Some boats have lifts, which is obviously a good choice. The excursions are made accessible by Egyptian staff that will do anything to make you happy, including pushing you in a wheelchair across difficult terrain. They are always proud to show-off their amazing country.
Luxor Airport is small but perfectly formed. Everything you need is there and it is very speedy to get through. The cafe is cheap and the duty free is VERY cheap!
*This experience was taken on 20-27th January 2025. Anything you have a question about or want to add? Please let us know [email protected]
